Hollow point, depending on the round, "detonates" upon impact sending shards of "stuff" inside the body. The middle bullet will go right through most of the time. The one on the end is a dum-dum and will make a big hole more or less and will do more damage than the middle round. I use the hollow points but I utilize a "special treatment" for them.
Like dipping them in poison-frog juice?
(Left to right) left: immediate expansion the right hollow point will create total evisceration of internal organs, vessels, and some minor bones not much good against body armor.
middle: if it is true FMJ and not plated you will achieve tremendous penetration great bone annihilation, great stopping power.
right: if this is a true solid with the flat nose you will have superior penetration and devastation to bone and kinetic energy transfer clear thru obstacle ( hits like a freight train) Keep in mind depending a lot on load and caliber for variations in energy transfer.
And what it is your shooting at. Either two on the right will go thru walls, don't worry about going around.
my experience only, been custom building for 30 years.
Thanks for the info!
Best as I can tell...
Left) - .44 magnum 240 grain jacketed hollow point. The round blows parts off. Awesome round but a bit too much recoil.
Middle) - .45 ACP - 230 full metal jacket. A bad-ass round. Knocks people over and kills them good.
Right) - 9 MM - crappy round - low recoil - the euro-weenies love them.
Anything with a 4 in it is a good bad guy killer. Remember a 9 MM might expand but a 45 won't shrink.
Fine pic. of my 44 magnum hollow--point ~~I like distance still rips a big--hole..!!
Each of these will cause devastating damage to flesh. Far right is what is commonly referred to as a "wad cutter" or paper puncher, used primarily for target shooting. Middle is a "ball" bullet. Nothing fancy and issues business with standard expected damage for its design. A bullet is meant to expand upon contact and, as it passes through flesh, deliver its energy until spent. The ball design will expand only minimally but will penetrate deeply. The example on the left is a "hollow point". This design is intended to separate at the leading rim of the projectile and expand as it passes through flesh like the ball ammo. However, this design causes the front of the bullet to split into a "star" like shape with sharp, jagged edges upon contact which, as you can imagine, causes incredible damage to flesh as it slices through tissue and blood vessels. The downfall of the hollow point is that it will begin to expand upon contact with clothing, a crucial consideration in the Northern hemisphere in winter months. The ball ammo will penetrate through the clothing more effectively but doesn't expand as much as the hollow point. Police prefer the hollow point primarily because of its increased stopping power and the likely hood that it will not over penetrate and continue on to another victim. All three of these examples are "copper jacketed" which means only that they are a lead projectile that has been coated with copper. The copper holds the lead together to control expansion.
One on far right is not I repeat not a wad cutter (wad cutter is for target and is lead not copper)
Aside from the different calibers, from the left; jacketed hollowpoints are designed to expand. When being shot through heavy cloth or leather, they can become clogged and fail to do so. They can also be problematic in cycling in some firearms. The center one is a jacketed round nose, AKA ball ammo. It usually does not expand, but is the most reliable type to cycle. The one to the right is a jacketed flat nose. Not much different than ball ammo. More of a target round.
Hollowpoints are generally thought to be more effective stoppers, but in discussing self-defense, some gentlemen with much more experience than I have pointed out that shot placement is the most important aspect; practice, practice, practice.
The overriding issue here is nobody wants to be shot period, with any of these and quite frankly others as well. For instance, the .357 magnum, the .40 cal., the .38 Super and one of my favorites.....the 10mm will not be received well by the recipient. As a certified range officer, personal defense coach and combat veteran, it's all about placement. Placement determines which of these rounds do the most damage and has been stated here, it depends on what the round has to go through to effect the intended result. The hollow point will do the most tissue damage given there is not a lot of clothing in the way. The round nose as has been stated will penetrate through a barrier more efficiently, while the flat nose, as was mentioned earlier, is often range or practice ammo. What it comes down to is any firearm is better that no firearm and that being said, the firearm must be suitable for the person carrying it. Any firearm is better than none and the person, male or female must be able to properly handle and fire the firearm in a high pressure situation. It comes down to practice, practice, practice, as accuracy is more important than caliber! I know of an instance where a guy took out an aggressive bear with a .22LR round to the ear, that's all he had.........he was very lucky to say the least. A situation where necessity is the mother of invention and not recommended. When in the woods I'd carry a .44mag. or a 10mm at least and if possible even a .454.
CANDY ( BITE THE BULLET ) .